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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.